What follows are the instructions from Chic and Sandra Cicero’s, Secrets of a Golden Dawn Temple: Book 1, Creating Magical Tools, pages 105 – 109.

Materials Needed:

• Black material (such as cotton, silk, doeskin, or crepe) 48″ wide
• Black thread

Tools Needed:

• Measuring tape
• Scissors and pins
• Sewing machine
• Iron and ironing board

Construction: Preparation of the Material

1. Measure yourself from your neck to the floor. This will be known as measurement” A.” The material you buy should be twice the length of measurement” A,” plus one yard.
2. Wash and dry the material in accordance with the manufacturer ‘s directions. Iron the material if needed.

Preliminary Cutting

3. Lay the material out lengthwise with the right side up (the side which is to be the outside of the robe).
4. Fold a section over so that you have a doubled surface equal to “A,” plus 4″. (Note: there will be a single layer of fabric left over at the bottom.)
5. Cut off the single layer and put it aside for the time being.
6. Make a second fold lengthwise.

Marking the Material

7. With the tape measure, mark the fabric as follows:

• 2″ down from the top right-hand comer.
• From the top right-hand comer, mark 4″ across the top of the fabric.
• 14″ down from the top right-hand corner. (For a broad person, increase the measurement to 16″.)
• From the last mark, draw a straight line across to the selvage edges.
• hand fold, measure along the marked line a length equal to 1/2 of your chest circumference.
• Connect the marks to make the following lines:
  – A semi-circular curve connecting the two marks at the top of the right-hand comer.
  – A diagonal line from the lower left-hand corner of the material to the 1/2 chest measurement mark.
  – A line that curves up 2″ from the 1/2 chest measurement mark and connects with the chest measurement line at the selvage edge.

Cutting the Material

8. Cut through all layers of material, cutting lines 1 and 2 of the diagram. Unfold the material so that it looks more like the finished robe.
9. Take the single layer of material that was put aside earlier. Fold it widthwise with the inside out so that the doubled length is 18″. (For broad persons, this measurement will be 20″.) Cut off the single layer that remains at the bottom and put it aside.
10. Cut the remaining doubled portion in half.

The Sleeves

11. Take one of the two pieces just cut, and place it, with the fold on top, even with the fold at the top of the robe. Overlap the edges by 1″ under the existing sleeve.
12. Measure from where your neck joins your shoulder, down the arm, to the tip of the middle finger. This is measurement “B.”
13. Measure across the top of the robe from the right edge of the neck hole and mark off point “1” at a distance of measurement “B.”
14. Draw a straight line down from the marked paint “1” to point “2” in the diagram. From the corner of the robe sleeve draw an angled line to point “2.”
15. Cut both lines which lead to point “2.”
16. Do the other sleeve in the same manner.

Cutting the Facing

17. From the excess fabric, fold a piece of 10″ x 14″ material in half. Center the material under the neck hole of the robe. Trace the neck opening onto the fabric underneath.
18. Remove the marked piece of material and, using a tape measure, mark 3″ away from the traced line in several places until you have a second curved line. Cut along both lines.
19. You should now have four pieces of fabric cut and ready to sew: the main part of the robe, two sleeves, and the neck facing.

Sewing the Neck Facing

20. Hem the outer edge of the neck facing 1/2″ all around.
21. Lay the robe out flat, with the right side up. Pin the facing material around the robe’s neck, placing the right sides of the fabric together. (Note: The hem of the fabric should be up.) Point the pins toward the center of the neck to make sewing over them easier.
22. Sew all around the neck, leaving a 5/8″ seam. Clip all around the neck toward the seam, but take care not to cut the seam thread.
23. Turn the robe inside out. Pull the facing through the neck opening. Lay the robe out on its wrong side and tack.

Sewing the Sleeves and Sides

24. Lay the fabric out, wrong side up. Pin the right sides together (where sleeve extension meets the robe’s sleeve. See the diagram). Sew along the dotted line, leaving 5/8″ seam allowance. Iron the seams open.
25. Do the other arm the same way.

Sewing the Sides of the Robe

26. Fold the material over at the shoulders with the wrong side out. Pin under the arms and along the sides. Sew, leaving a 5/8″  seam allowance. (See diagram.) Clip under the arm seam, toward the seam, but be careful not to cut the seam thread.

Finishing Steps

27. Hemming the sleeves: turn under 1/2″ of the sleeve edge. Iron, pin, and sew. Try the robe on and turn the sleeve under so that the robe meets the first knuckle. Iron, pin, and sew.
28. Hemming the bottom: Tum the robe up 1/2″. Iron, pin and sew. Try the robe on and tum up the bottom, so that the edge of the robe does not touch the floor. Pin, iron and sew.
29. Turn the robe right side out, try it on and check to make sure that it fits. Iron.”